Eccentric and avant-garde but also welcoming and vibrant – it’s all Dunedin, the oldest city in New Zealand.
Words KSENIIA SPODYNEIKO
Images ALEX SPODYNEIKO
We’re driving to Dunedin from Wanaka and the scenery so far is more suited to Lapland, not New Zealand as we, Tauranga-based people, know it. After half an hour of navigating frost-covered roads surrounded by trees wrapped in snow blankets, I’m almost ready to admit visiting Dunedin wasn’t my brightest idea. Almost. Because as soon as we finally emerge from a frozen hell, we find the city basking in sunshine. We must’ve hit some kind of weather jackpot as it remains like that for the next five days.
A PIECE OF EUROPE
You haven’t truly been to Dunedin without joking about it being Edinburgh’s twin city at least once. And not only because ‘Dunedin’ literally means ‘Edinburgh’ in Scottish Gaelic. It’s hard to resist the cliché, when you see the legendary railway station in all its Edwardian baroque glory, the Hogwarts- style Otago University or all the historic churches generously scattered around. And don’t even let me begin on the Otago Times Building – home to New Zealand’s oldest newspaper – I was five seconds from packing my bags and moving in.
Another must-see heritage building is the First Church of Otago, opened in September 1848, only six months after the Scottish settlers arrived in the country. Of course, it wasn’t quite as big and impressive back then. But these days it’s the fourth tallest building in the South Island and a pure piece of art.
Dunedin is basically an open-air museum and the best place to start exploring it is the eight-sided plaza in the heart of the city, also known as The Octagon. Massive St. Paul’s Cathedral might be dominating the landscape here but it’s the buzzing crowd, relaxing in hip burger restaurants, bursting out of the modern art galleries and chatting on the plaza steps, that attracts the most attention. Ok, you’ll definitely need to peel your eyes off the 150-year old beauty first, but once you do it you’ll see what Dunedin really is all about.
And that’s the unbelievably lively, upbeat urban atmosphere, created by energetic students from all over the country and locals who know how to really enjoy themselves. There is something in the air of Dunedin. Something that makes you smile, makes you want to jump and sing your heart out. This childish, unforgettable and unforgivable joy of life you experience here is what sets Dunedin apart from any other destination.
WELCOME INSIDE
Drooling over the insane architecture was fulfilling but after a few days we decided to explore the inside of the historic buildings as well and discovered a couple of unique gems.
Otago Museum, perched at the edge of the University campus, for example, hides one of the largest museum collections in the country and one of the world’s best collections of all things moa, including two of the only three intact moa eggs in the world.
But it’s the museum’s three-storey Tropical Forest Butterfly House that struck us dumb. Colourful exotic creatures flying everywhere, impressive indoor waterfall, swing bridge and the cutest little quails minding their own business… If you hear someone clapping hands and squeaking like a little happy child, it wasn’t me, nope!
It’s one thing to see historic tools, weapons and costumes in the museum but for the truly immersive experience we drive outside the town to visit Larnach Castle. Built by merchant baron William Larnach in 1871, New Zealand’s only castle is nestled at the top of the hill on Otago Peninsula and boasts breathtaking views and authentic Victorian atmosphere. Of course, you can confine yourself to walking around the gardens but skipping a peek inside the castle would be a glaring omission. The interior of the castle, restored by the Barker family, who bought it in 1967 and gradually returned it to its original splendour, is absolutely worth the extra $17 per person.
Before leaving, we check out the Ballroom Café. On a warm summer’s day, you can enjoy a lovely high tea overlooking the gardens. Since we’re here in winter, we opt for hot soup by the fireplace instead. The historic ballroom is not as pompous as one might expect from a castle but it’s cosy, beautiful and the food is great.
For art lovers, Dunedin Public Art Gallery, with its mixture of historic and contemporary works, is a place not to be missed. Modest from the outside, this space is utterly breathtaking inside. From The Octagon entrance, you step into a gigantic foyer drenched in natural light, with warm wooden floors and art pieces all around. Colourful halls of the ground floor provide an insight into an extensive collection of local and European paintings the gallery has accumulated throughout its almost 150-year history, while the first floor is filled with temporary modern art exhibitions.
WILDLIFE EXPLORATION
Otago Peninsula is home to sea lions, seals, several types of penguins and the world’s only mainland albatross colony.
We join Elm Wildlife Tour to meet Dunedin’s cutest citizens. There are heaps of tours to choose from but this particular one picks you up from the i-Site, drives you around, takes you to the private beaches with colonies that no-one else is allowed to visit and was even voted ‘New Zealand’s best leisure activity’, which, after several days of climbing Guinness Record-worthy steep streets, is exactly what we need.
We opt for the Standard Encounters Tour ($115) but you can also add a one-hour boat cruise and/or albatross viewing.
Surprise-surprise, our first stop is the Royal Albatross Centre! While two other girls on our tour go for their 30-minute viewing, we admire the Peninsula from the carpark and even manage to spot two albatrosses fishing not too far away. Not a bad start for what turns out to be the most amazing experience ever!
The next thing we know, we’re at the special platform on a private beach with no other soul in sight, admiring the cutest little fur seal pups and their mothers. Driving all around the Peninsula, we then meet giant sea lions, who, apparently, are not afraid of humans – which doesn’t mean WE are not afraid of them; these beasts are terrifying up close! And finally, reach one more secluded beach with the endemic yellow-eyed penguins. All in one tour!
On our way back to the car, the guide explains that the little holes in the ground are man-made and are meant for the little blue penguins. Leave it to me to crawl on the wet ground in search of the penguin coach potatoes who might’ve stayed at home while the others are out in the water, and find not one but two lil lazy dudes! After forty minutes of oohing and aahing, we decide to book a Little Blue Penguin viewing tour at the Royal Albatross Centre, ‘cause two penguins are never enough!
Night is a much better time to spot the world’s tiniest penguins as they return to the shore from their daily duties in the water, and here you’ll be standing on a special viewing platform with soft lights that do not irritate or scare the penguins but allow the best possible view. The platform can easily accommodate up to 90 people, so booking in advance is not necessary – just check the tour starting time online, as it depends on the time of the year, and be there in time.
The first couple appears almost as soon as we arrive on the platform. They surf the waves for a short while and then scurry awkwardly to their holes. After another few penguins arrive, the real fun begins – apparently, they don’t just disappear into their holes to catch up on sleep. Instead, they wander around, diving from one hole to another, which definitely looks like visiting friends. Who knew penguins are so sociable?
The tour lasts 75 minutes and we spot around 20 little blue penguins. Winter is not the best time of the year for that but if you’re lucky to be in Dunedin in spring or summer, you can spot up to 100 of them in one night.
MORE DINEDIN PHOTO-OPS:
- Signal Hill Lookout. The place to be during sunset for the best views of Dunedin.
- Baldwin Street. Recognised by Guinness World Records as the steepest street in the world.
- Dunedin Chinese Garden. Unexpected oasis of calmness and relaxation in the city centre.
- Dunedin Botanic Garden. Heated Edwardian glass house, huge rose garden, aviary, bush walks and duck pond.