We gaze in disbelief at the giant sign that says ‘Forgotten World Highway begins’. After almost a year of wanting to do this trip, we’re finally here! Our car is fully loaded with gas and snacks, Spotify road trip playlists are pre- downloaded and we even have a paper map of Taranaki in the glove box. This is getting real!
Images ALEX SPODYNEIKO
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THERE ARE NO GAS STATIONS ON THE ENTIRE FORGOTTEN WORLD HIGHWAY. YOUR TANK SHOULD BE FULL!
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AND NO CELL COVERAGE. MAKE SURE YOUR FAMILY KNOWS WHERE YOU ARE.
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WHANGAMOMONA HOTEL AND LAUREN’S LAVENDER FARM (CLOSED IN WINTER) ARE THE ONLY SPOTS SELLING FOOD SO MAKE SURE YOU TAKE SOME SNACKS WITH YOU.
WHY IS IT FORGOTTEN?
While the Forgotten World Highway doesn’t have as much buzz around it as Hobbiton or Milford Sound, it’s the oldest heritage trail in New Zealand and one of the country’s most scenic routes.
This remote area used to be very prosperous with hundreds of farming families moving here at the end of the 19th Century to help build the roads.
In the early 20th Century the second wave of settlers started to arrive; this time to build the railway line. Everyone looked forward to the large-scale coal mining that would bring money and a new vibe to the region … all it needed was a proper railway line first! It soon became clear though, that the geographic isolation of the area would never allow it to become the coal mining capital.
So, for the last century, State Highway 43 faced nothing but an outflow of locals. Former bustling towns with populations of over 1,000 people now barely accommodate 40.
Renaming State Highway 43 into the ‘Forgotten World Highway’ in 2012 was a stroke of genius. Abandoned houses became motels and the failed railway line turned into a popular attraction for tourists wanting to explore the area in quirky modified golf carts.
MAY I SEE YOUR PASSPORT, PLEASE?
The road is only 155km long but many people prefer to spend a whole weekend exploring it. There are over 30 points of interest along the way and seeing them all in one day is simply impossible!
We don’t have two days, so we have to prioritise. Taranaki Pioneer Village? Maybe next time. Strathmore Saddle with views of Mt Taranaki on one side and Tongariro, Ruapehu and Ngauruhoe on the other side? Yes, please, but only for five minutes. Bridge to Somewhere? We’ll pass on this one.
An hour and a half later we reach Whangamomona, a self-proclaimed republic, nestled cosily in the very middle of the route. Now that’s a place worth stopping off for a while!
In 1989, local boundaries were redrawn and this part of the Taranaki region became Manawatu. Whangamomona citizens weren’t happy with the decision and refused to accept it, declaring themselves an independent republic instead. Every visitor can now get a customs stamp in their passport or even purchase their own Whangamomona passport! In January the town celebrates Republic Day and elects a new president. Although it hasn’t been recognised as an official republic, Whangamomona became the first ‘country’ in the world to be ruled by a woman president! At one stage it was also ruled by a goat – Whangamomona citizens are free from any stereotypes!
The central building of this town is Whangamomona Hotel. It’s also the only place on the highway to grab lunch. We park the car and walk inside. Suddenly we’re transported back in time. Washed-out newspaper pages decorate the walls, as well as black-and-white photos of first settlers, men with their tools and families in front of their homes. There is even a framed photo of the last passenger train that came through Whangamomona in 1983! A lonely barefoot guest is drinking beer and watching a rugby game; his gumboots resting outside.
We buy passports (of course!) and order fish ‘n chips. The hotel is located beside the road but not a single car passes by … until the peace is interrupted by a dozen roaring motorbikes. Bikers love testing their vehicles on the deserted highway.
SO, WHERE TO NEXT?
Rushing through the first half of the highway means we have enough time to properly explore the most interesting part – from Whangamomona to Taumarunui.
We enter the 180m single-lane Moki Tunnel and emerge on the other side in what looks like Jurassic Park: high hills tower above us, massive trees unique to this area are growing everywhere, there is a river somewhere down below and, what’s more important, no more asphalt! The 12km of unsealed road winding through the lush Tangarakau Gorge is certainly the most spectacular part of the whole route.
We take a quick detour to visit another outstanding place – Mt Damper Falls. At 74m, this is the North Island’s second highest waterfall, although perhaps not the most breathtaking. It’s a narrow veil type of waterfall, hidden modestly behind greenery, so you can only see a part of it.
What makes it so special, however, is the one kilometre walk to get to the waterfall, firstly through private farmland and then through a magical forest. We meet a lot of friendly sheep and goats along the way – it feels surreal to walk through this area, surrounded by so many animals that aren’t behind a fence!
Lauren’s Lavender Farm is the last major stop on the Forgotten World Highway. Located 15km before Taumarunui, this rustic old farm house (now a café and gift shop) greets us with a calming lavender aroma, pastel colours and romantic interior. There is no better way to unwind after an intense trip than to sip hot tea with homemade muffins on a huge outdoor deck overlooking magnificent lavender fields. It’s not the biggest lavender farm we’ve been to but its cosy, welcoming vibe is second to none. Bliss!