Rotorua is known as the ‘geothermal wonderland’ of New Zealand and, after signing off the latest edition of 2018, the two focus editors (Dee Collins and Kseniia Spodyneiko) decided this would be a great destination for an ultimate girls’ day out. As everyone knows, Rotorua is a sensory experience with so many things to see, touch, taste, smell and soak in. We couldn’t wait.
Images ALEX & KSENIIA SPODYNEIKO
TO SEE: HELL’S GATE
Guided by enthusiastic Mark Frazer, we navigate our way through the dramatic scenery of Hell’s Gate, the most active geothermal area in Rotorua. To our right is the 122°C boiling lake, while on our left is one of the tallest mud volcanoes in the world, erupting every six weeks. Everything here is steamy, bubbly and highly acidic – the heat source feeding Hell’s Gate is only 1km below the surface. We’re literally walking on a hot frying pan right now!
This area had once scared Irish playwright and famous atheist George Bernard Shaw, but it certainly doesn’t scare local workers. On the contrary, they are passionate about their job and have a great sense of humor. ‘Persons who throw litter or stones into the thermal pools may be asked to retrieve them’, says the sign by Inferno Pools, whose name speaks for itself.
Despite ‘Hell’, ‘Inferno’ and ‘Devil’ being frequently used words here, the area itself is not as dead as it might seem. In fact, there is a small flourishing ecosystem in the middle of the park with green trees, singing birds and silver ferns glinting in the shadows. We also spot blossoming Mingimingi, Mānuka and Kānuka plants all round. And there is no smell!
After the tour, most people head directly to the iconic Mud Bath and Sulphur Spa, that has just been upgraded with a brand new infinity pool overlooking the whole geothermal area. We decide to wrap up our walk with the warm Mud Foot Pool and a delicious tea made from unique local plants and served exclusively at the Hell’s Gate café.
Rotorua is part of the Taupō Volcanic Zone, a geothermal field extending from White Island to Mt Ruapehu. The constant activity of these volcanoes is mostly hidden from the human eye but on the surface we can see the magnificent results: volcanic crater lakes, spouting geysers, bubbling mud pools, hissing fumaroles and colourful sinter terraces all around the town.
TO TASTE: TERRACE KITCHEN
Thermally heated floors are Rotorua’s calling card, especially on a windy cold day. Take Eat Street, for example – a whole row of bars and restaurants with a heated pathway, allowing its visitors to indulge in food from all over the world, while staying warm and cosy outdoors.
We find Terrace Kitchen on Tutanekai Street to be friendly and bright. The light interior, authentic menu and, you guessed it, thermally heated concrete on the terrace in the backyard, make us feel most welcome. It’s good to sit here and rest our feet after a long walk.
Terrace Kitchen has an ever-changing menu and offers us a good selection of items, many of them with an Asian twist: Chicken Ramen (with miso roasted pork mince, sesame nori, chili and soft tea egg) and Baa in a bun (tomato and turmeric shredded lamb in a potato and flaxseed bun).
Kseniia can’t resist peeking over to see what the table beside us has ordered and ends up ordering the same mouthwatering Soy Mushroom Bao Buns ($12). Dee opts for the Market Fish ($32) that is given the thumbs up. It’s a modest serving but certainly ample for lunch.
TO SOAK: POLYNESIAN SPA
A trip to Rotorua is never complete without a swim in one of the hot pools. Boiling water seethes from underground in every backyard here. From free Kerosene Creek to the luxurious spas, there are many options to choose from. But nothing can beat a pampering session at the award-winning Polynesian Spa.
This is every girl’s dream come true. From the warmed- up towels in the changing rooms to the most relaxing beauty treatments, every little detail here screams ‘the best day of your life’.
The Polynesian Spa is the only place in the area to have both acidic and alkaline springs. The first one is perfect for arthritis sufferers. There is a legend that Catholic Priest Father Mahoney, who suffered from severe arthritis, spent a week in this spring in 1878 and felt so good he even walked all the way from Rotorua back to Tauranga! Unfortunately, although the original healing pools are still there to see, they can’t be used anymore. For those guests looking for a nourishing skin treatment that has anti-aging properties, the alkaline springs are recommended.
There are surprisingly few people enjoying the healing waters at this time of day and apparently, it only gets really busy between 5-8 pm when tourists, who have spent the day exploring neighbourhood sites like Hobbiton, start to arrive. We take our time admiring the pools, the views from the ‘Deluxe Lake Spa’ and those awesome heated benches before our pre-booked one-hour facial.
It’s very easy to choose the right treatment in the Polynesian Spa. Most of them cost $179, so the choice is based on the procedure and the skincare used, rather than on price. We’re each shown to an airy treatment room, right on the edge of Lake Rotorua. Therapists use Aromatherapy Associates for our facials and it isn’t long before we’re nodding off in their capable hands as our skin is hydrated, soothed and refined. The scalp and hand massages are an unexpected and most welcome bonus.
We reunite in the relaxation lounge with a signature view over the lake. This place would make a perfect fit for the luxurious 5-star spa hotels somewhere in Switzerland. Who knew we had such a strong competitor within arm’s reach!
BONUS: REDWOODS TREEWALK
Though it’s definitely time to head home, we make one more stop to see the legendary Redwoods Treewalk. A few months ago, a whole new section – elevated even higher above ground level with a glass-bottomed viewing platform – was added to the existing 21 suspension bridges. Best part about it? The price hasn’t changed significantly, with daytime admission currently priced at $29 per adult and the Day/Night Combo at $39 per adult.
The short 700m walk allows people to observe the majestic forest from a new perspective and is also a great example of sustainable eco-tourism. The bridges are constructed in a way that doesn’t harm the 100-year-old trees.
It’s hard to believe this unique facility was only added to Rotorua’s tourist path in late 2015! Fitted so organically into the scenery, it feels like it’s always been there.
As we were leaving, the Redwoods team were starting to switch the David Trubridge-designed lanterns and colour spots on in readiness for Redwoods Nightlights; the night walk has had rave reviews.
•••
Rotorua certainly offers visitors a wide variety of things to enjoy and experience. “Rotorua – feel the spirit – Manaakitanga” is its catch-cry and whether you’re seeking to encounter Māori culture, geothermal earth forces, spa rejuvenation, biking trails, trout fishing, walking tracks or lakes, Rotorua has it all.
Our thanks to Destination Rotorua and participating companies for an epic Girls’ Day Out.
Polynesian Spa
100 Hinemoa street 8am–11pm
Deluxe Lake Spa – $55 pp
Adult & Priest Pools – $30 pp
polynesianspa.co.nz
Hell’s Gate
State Highway 30, Tikitere 8.30am–10pm
Special Combo Package – $90 pp
hellsgate.co.nz
Terrace Kitchen
1029 Tutanekai Street
7.30am–late
terrace.kitchen
Redwoods Treewalk
1 Long Mile road
9am– 1pm
Daytime admission – $29 pp
treewalk.co.nz