Need a pick-me-up? Try Raglan for a few days. It’s the perfect booster shot in the soul.
Photos: Margarete Kraemer, Anna Malec, Ernest Buczynski
After weeks of another suburban lock-down, social distancing and mask wearing I was ripe for Raglan again, my go-to place to recalibrate and recharge. Together with two friends who hadn’t been in Raglan before we made our way to the West Coast and our out-of-the-ordinary clifftop accommodation, C’barn.
A beach like no other
Non-surfers like me, my friends were wondering what keeps me raving about Raglan. It’s the black-sand ocean beach that’s wider and wilder than the great beaches at our doorstep in Tauranga. It’s the rock pools that miraculously emerge from the sand at low tide only to disappear again a few hours later. It’s the sand banks you can walk out on and feel as if there were no physical and mental limits – just the gentle, soothing rippling of the water around you and the wet sand squishing between your toes. It’s the bizarre beauty of the wind-sculptured trees along the slopes and the cliff ridge that line the seemingly endless surf beach. And it’s the spectacular sunsets I cannot tire watching from Michael Hope Lookout, usually with something to eat and drink while I marvel at Mother Nature’s splendid performance over Raglan’s best beaches.
From C’barn we enjoyed the view to the plateau along the ocean beach and Wainui Reserve, a 140-hectare farm park with a number of beach, bush and farm walking tracks. After moving into our rooms we packed a late picnic lunch, explored some of the tracks and marvelled at the Hinuera stone sculptures known as the Four Winds.
A quirky, boho flair about town
A walk along Raglan’s palm tree-lined Bow Street was a good start to get a general feel of the place: quirky, eclectic shops, galleries and eateries, and normally lots of street life. Sadly, Covid-19 restrictions had put a damper on that, but the town is going to bounce back. Next time it would again be the Raglan I knew, with its bohemian lifestyle and artistic vibe, I assured my friends and myself.
The bottom of Bow Street marks the beginning of the flat, 9km long Three Bridges Walk alongside the harbour edge and the estuary. We only had time to cross the first bridge to check out an odd object on the beach: a WW II concrete bunker covered in graffiti, known as the pillbox. In 1942 it was erected up on the dunes to ward off a potential Japanese invasion, but erosion and an attempt by the army to blow it up have left it on the beach. Every year the pillbox sports a different look: perpetually erased by the elements, the old spray paint disappears, eventually turning the concrete into a clean canvas for a new design.
Wahine Moe? Next time!
Wallis Street took us to the wharf at the other end of town. Approaching the wharf, the most prominent features are the old Golden Bay Cement silos built in 1967. They were converted to up-market holiday apartments and offer a grand view of the harbour. The wharf is still a working wharf used by fishing boats and other vessels. We were told that fish and chips served at wharf-based Raglan Fish are delicious. Their wet fish selection, sold fresh off the boat, certainly looked very appealing.
It would have been nice to explore the harbour or enjoy the sunset from the water on the Wahine Moe catamaran. Unfortunately, a sign informed us that the two-hour sunset cruises would only start operating again at Alert Level 1, so no booking this time.
A chocolate lover’s dream
After browsing the shops on the wharf – pottery, shoes and other leather goods – we decided it was time for a coffee and something sweet. While there are many cafes in Raglan, the one not to be missed is La La Land, a tiny boutique café with a huge pohutukawa tree in front. It offers an incredible selection of tasty treats for the discerning sweet tooth, including vegan and gluten-free options. The eclectic interior oozes European charm, while outdoor seating is provided under and around the canopy of the pohutukawa. Polish born owner and operator, Monika Suchecka, recommended orange-chili flavoured hot chocolate. Indeed, it was superb: thick, rich chocolate with an intense flavour and a well dosed sharpness of chili. Bliss!
After three days it was time to leave. On our way home we made a detour to Bridal Veil Falls, 25km south of Raglan. The water plunges down 55m over a basalt cliff into a sandstone pool and can be viewed from two platforms. With almost 300 steps to the bottom it certainly got our circulation going.
And just how lucky we were with our timing! Shortly after we had left, Raglan joined Auckland and went into Alert Level 3 lock-down. Till next time, Raglan, when you return to your usual vibrant self! I’ll be back for sure.
Raglan’s tourism and hospitality industry as well as its many artists are busy preparing
for Raglan’s big annual event, the Raglan Arts Weekend (RAW), which was postponed
from Labour Day this year to Easter 2022. It’s always a popular event so you might
want to get your accommodation booking in soon. Here are the details