A self-confessed ‘gem geek’ and the owner of Frances Adrian Jewellery Design, Anna Seelye is putting Hamilton on the jewellery map of New Zealand with her breathtaking bespoke designs and blinding enthusiasm for minerals and metals.
PASSION FOR GEMS AND MINERALS IS NOT SOMETHING YOU SEE IN PEOPLE ON A DAILY BASIS. WHEN DID YOU FIRST FALL IN LOVE WITH THE WORLD OF JEWELLERY?
I don’t think I realised it until I was a little older, but jewellery was always meant to be a part of my life in some way. I remember sitting on my grandmother’s bed as a child, delving through her jewellery box and finding all sorts of interesting pieces, playing dress ups… I’m sure that was where the seed was planted. I also have vivid memories of detours to gem and rock shops as a kid and spending a long (long!) time picking through goodies. Even my very first key ring was a lovely banded agate slice!
At the age of 17, while I was studying for a photography degree, I worked part time in a jewellers and it was there that I truly fell in love with handling metals and precious gems. I have since completed formal gemmological, diamond grading and jewellery valuation training.
WHAT WAS IT LIKE WORKING IN LONDON?
I worked in Hatton Garden, the very famous jewellery quarter of London. Virtually the whole street lives and breathes jewellery or gems in some way, so it was nice to be swept up in that, even though it was a bit mad at times. I was totally immersed in the culture. One of the great things about working in a place with such a long and rich history, was the interesting antique pieces and unusual gems that came through the doors. I got to handle a lot of pieces that would be rare finds in New Zealand and gained a wealth of gemmological knowledge simply through working with such a wide range.
GEMMOLOGY SOUNDS EXCITING BUT IT’S OBVIOUSLY A COMPLICATED SCIENCE THAT REQUIRES A LOT OF PATIENCE AND ATTENTION.
I really enjoy the methodical process of carrying out all the tests. Being a gemmologist is a bit like being a detective. There are so many ‘clues’ to a gem’s identity or if it has undergone any treatments. The most fascinating aspect for me is observing an interesting inclusion inside a gem, especially if it indicates its identity or evidence/lack of treatment. I also love to photograph these inclusions to keep as a reference for myself – and to decorate my studio walls!
DO PEOPLE IN NEW ZEALAND SEARCH FOR DIFFERENT THINGS IN JEWELLERY COMPARED TO LONDON?
I don’t think there is a huge difference, except, perhaps, in London, a few more people were requesting larger coloured gems for engagement rings. One thing we both definitely have in common is a desire to have our jewellery reflect who we are and the things we love, which means I often get to work on pieces that are just a little different and that’s always really satisfying.
WHAT DOES YOUR WORK PROCESS LOOK LIKE?
Most often for me, it’s intuitive. Whether it’s a new design or one that is comprised of existing gems, I often get a feel pretty quickly of what style will result in a beautiful and functional piece. I also have a great love of architecture and old botanical watercolours, and have a bit of a collection of images on my studio wall that I often gaze over and every now and again put some ideas to paper. These designs are ever evolving and a definite long-term project for me.
WHERE DID THE INSPIRATION FOR THE NAME FRANCES ADRIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN COME FROM?
Having my own jewellery design business has been an ambition for a number of years. In 2020, when my working circumstances changed post lockdown, I felt that it was time to do something for myself. Frances and Adrian are names that run through my, and my husband’s, family. They’re very special and I wanted them to be a part of this.
YOUR BRAND ALSO SPECIALISES IN REMAKES AND REMODELS. IS THE PROCESS EQUALLY EXCITING AND CHALLENGING FOR YOU?
It may sound clichéd but every remodel job is interesting! There is so much emotion and sentiment attached to design work of this kind. These projects tend to contain pieces that have been collected over a number of years and can often be a bit of a mix of stones – of both size and species – so working through what is available and deciding how best to incorporate them into a meaningful design can take some time. It’s definitely one of the more challenging aspects of what I do but hands down the most rewarding.
DO YOU STILL FIND TIME TO CREATE SOMETHING JUST FOR YOURSELF?
I have a few loose stones tucked away that I’d love to have made up one day; I’ll get to them eventually! When I lived in London, I worked for a coloured gem merchant where a lot of really interesting pieces were bought and sold. When I decided to return to New Zealand, my rather eccentric boss gave me a lovely piece of quartz with amazing inclusions.
I’ve since had it made up into a simple pendant and it’s a very special piece that reminds me of my time there. My engagement ring was also purchased in London – an antique Art Deco diamond cluster. I’m a lover of antique jewellery and I always wanted an ‘old’ piece when I got engaged! I often wonder about who the original owner was, where they lived and what drew them to choose that ring. I like the mystery that surrounds it.
IS ART DECO ONE OF THE STYLES YOU PERSONALLY ENJOY WORKING IN?
I love to design pieces that have either design features or gem combinations from particular historical jewellery eras – Art Deco being a definite favourite. I love the structured, geometric styling, often featuring smaller stones to create beautiful patterns. I also love taking inspiration from the iconic architectural style that typified the period – think the Chrysler building in New York. Interestingly enough, working with large statement gems – and not necessarily anything rare or unusual – in very simple mountings is also something I enjoy. Sometimes the simplest of designs can be the trickiest to get just right!
IF TODAY YOU COULD MEET THE ANNA WHO IS STILL TAKING HER FIRST STEPS IN HER CAREER, WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE HER?
There is so much to learn about the different aspects of the jewellery industry, and while sometimes it can
be overwhelming, just take it all in and be a sponge! It also takes time but conversely you never know what may be around the corner. The experience I have gained in roles as a designer, gemmologist and valuer has meant that now I feel as if I have come full circle and am able to apply everything I have learnt to my own venture, and that’s a very satisfying feeling.
THE JEWELLERY WORLD IS FASCINATING BUT WHAT IS YOUR LIFE LIKE OUTSIDE OF IT?
I’ve always been a lover of travel and feel very fortunate to have been able to explore the culture, people and food of some amazing places over the past few years. Being able to travel to places such as Myanmar, Thailand and Sri Lanka, where there is a very rich gem trade, is a personal highlight. It has also been lovely in more recent times to be able to see a little more of our own amazing country; a little silver lining to the lack of international travel. These days though, you’ll most likely find mespending time with friends and family and running about with my toddler who has seemingly endless energy.